When we talk about Corton-Charlemagne, we evoke one of the best white wines in the world.
This Corton Charlemagne 2017 from the Domaine Maratray Dubreuil offers all the promises of this Grand Cru Blanc of the Côte de Beaune, with a note of excellence even more marked thanks to a 2017 vintage considered exceptional. The Domaine is one of the most demanding in Burgundy, and that is reflected in the result.
What fun! Rich and concentrated, the wine is at the same time round and supple, fluid but greasy, very long in the mouth ... in short an opulent, refined and very expressive wine, a very complete set that only the very great wines can manage to master in their globality.
Wine obviously long-term, to reserve a few more years, knowing that its optimum will be from 10 years of guard, until 20 years. But already what a success! Serving temperature: 11 to 13 °
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Located in Ladoix Serrigny just north of the Côte de Beaune, Domaine Maratray Dubreuil is one of the most prestigious and regular estates in this part of Burgundy.
The 19-hectare estate offers several large village appellations such as Aloxe Corton, Ladoix in red as well as white, Pernand Vergelesses, Chorey Les Beaune, Savigny Les Beaune, but also of the first Crus and several Grand Crus of Burgundy:Corton (Bressandes, Clos du Roi) and the famous Corton Charlemagne in The Great White Cru of Burgundy.
Particular attention is taken at each stage, both to the vines grown with rigour, and to the harvest which is picked by hand and which is then vinified in the traditional way while taking advantage of the various technological developments, with a 12-month ageing in barrels for white wines and 18 months for red wines.
When young, Corton-Charlemagne is pale gold in colour with green highlights. As it ages, the colour shifts towards yellow or amber. The bouquet, delicate in the extreme, features buttery notes of baked apple, citrus fruits, pineapple, lime, bracken, juniper, cinnamon, and flint. Honeyed notes are frequently present. The older vintages (25-30 years) reveal leather and truffle. Both the glass and the palate are filled with its powerful exhalations. Corton- Charlemagne is an astonishing demonstration of what the Chardonnay grape is capable of in terms of richness, power, concentration, distinction and balance. Rarely do we see such a perfect synthesis between grape variety and terroir.
Wine Steward’s Tip
The manner in which Corton-Charlemagne achieves a perfect balance in the mouth between its remarkable acidity and its rounded opulence demands refined and delicate dishes which nonetheless possess real aromatic power. The natural candidates would include foie gras, whose bitterness would be supported by the wine’s forceful minerality, as well as more conventional classics such as good-quality crustaceans (lobster, crawfish, crab) whose strong but delicate flesh harmonizes with the wine in a spectacular fashion. Poultry or veal in white sauces would also do the wine justice, as would blue cheeses. Serving temperature: 12 to 14°C.
Situated almost on the border between the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune, and at altitudes between 280 and 330 metres, much of the Corton- Charlemagne appellation faces south-west (which is uncommon in these parts). The Hill of Corton, high and rounded, has vineyards on three sides corresponding to the three villages of Aloxe-Corton (Climat: Le Charlemagne), Pernand-Vergelesses (Climat: En Charlemagne) and Ladoix-Serrigny (Climats: part or all of Pougets, Corton, Languettes).These vineyards were a gift of the Emperor Charlemagne to the religious community of Saint-Andoche de Saulieu in the year 775. It remained in their possession for a thousand years, and today still celebrates, at least in name, their illustrious benefactor. The appellation is made up of two Climats, Charlemagne and En Charlemagne, plus some neighbouring plots. Unlike the Corton appellation, the name of the Climat is not mentioned on the label. Its Grand Cru appellation dates from July 31, 1937.
The Corton Charlemagne appellation occupies the highest portion of the Hill of Corton where the gradients are steep (20-23%). The hill itself offers an exemplary geological section through the younger (145 million years) Jurassic strata which lie between Ladoix-Serrigny and Meursault. The colour of the clayrich marly soils varies from yellow through ochre to brown. Limestone alternates with marls beneath a thin cover of rendzinas. At mid-slope the mainly red wines of the Corton appellation grow on soils appreciably different in character.